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Showing posts with label bouldering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bouldering. Show all posts

Sunday, April 5, 2020

Which bouldering and rock climbing destinations are most impacted by the coronavirus pandemic?


I am a bit reluctant to write about the coronavirus pandemic. There is on the one hand already a lot of information out there. On the other hand, we still miss crucial aspects of this novel virus (such as the number of unknown cases). And, I cannot really contribute anything important to this topic. It is however consuming a lot of attention and interferes for many of us with our favorite sport (due to widespread lockdowns and social distancing regulations). This is why it is after all very relevant for the bouldering and rock climbing community, and why I decided to take this topic up here. 

First and foremost, please, adhere to the local regulations considering climbing and movement. You not only jeopardize future free access to local crags but also actual lives if you still continue as usual (e.g. by spreading the virus to remote communities or stressing already strained emergency resources)!

As the title says, I want to take here a look which bouldering and rock climbing destinations are most impacted by the coronavirus pandemic? Where could climbing (hopefully soon) be safe again? 

You can find below a simple visualization which shows the most important bouldering and rock climbing destinations, on the x-axis ranked by number of ascents in the 8a.nu database (until 2017). On the y-axis, you can find the number of confirmed COVID-19 cases per 100.00 inhabitants according to Johns-Hopkins University Center for Systems Scienceand Engineering. This gives a rough picture about which climbing destinations are most impacted by the coronavirus.



The number of confirmed COVID-19 cases is only a very crude proxy for the severity of the local conditions. There are, for example, large differences in tests performed between countries, and more testing means one will detect more cases. My home country, Germany, performes alot of tests and has a high rate of infections but a comparable low death rate. This is likely because there many mild cases detected through widespread testing. Other countries are suspected to artificially keep down the number of confirmed cases, by various means. Notwithstanding all these flaws, there will be on average a close relationship between the actual conditions and the number of confirmed cases. To consider the large differences in population numbers, I here look at confirmed cases by 100.000 inhabitants.

As you can see, a large part of the countries famous for their climbing spots in Europe are severely affected. Italy and Spain have established near complete lockdowns. The situation is also tense in Central Europe and the USA. It (yet) seems to be better Eastern Europe, in Greece, Mexiko, Australia and New Zealand, and other countries in Asia or South America. This is might be due to limited testing. It is not meant as a travel recommendation (some of these health systems have been already strained prior to the pandemic). But it might show where climbing might sooner be possible again.   

Tuesday, September 24, 2019

New Topic: Climbing Progression Over Time (how fast will you become better)

In the next weeks, we will explore a new topic. We will statistically look how fast individuals typically improve in rock climbing and bouldering using multilevel models. For this purpose we will consider average (and exceptional) experience-grade profiles based on gender, starting age and starting grade. As a technique we will consider multilevel models (and possibly same Bayesian models) which is well suited for tasks like this.

I already excited to see whether individuals improve fast in bouldering than in rock climbing, or whether we can identify a limiting age before you have to start to become really good.

Please let me know what you are interested in! Which (readily available) factors should be considered in your view for such an analysis?

Part 1: How many years does it take to climb 7a or 5.11d?
Part 2: Progressing like Adam Ondra or Stefano Ghisolfi
Part 3: Progression differences between rock climbing and bouldering
Part 4: The role of age. Is there a critical period to start before to become a professional climber?

Goodreads vs. Granite: Ranking the Best Rock Climbing Books

  After a long break, I'm excited to breathe some life back into this blog with occasional new articles. Let’s kick things off with a to...